2002 Bonny Doon Vineyards DEWN Charbono

Region: Napa Valley, California, US

Composition: 100% Charbono

Background: I was reminded of this wine when I was looking for a WBW7 wine and picked up a bottle of Shypoke Charbono. I thought I might try it, but was warned against it (being told that it probably wasn't the best wine with which to get an introduction to Charbono). Then I remembered that I had two bottles of this at home, and the person who warned me against the Shypoke recommended it, so I thought I would check one out. Plus, I have been on a Bonny Doon rampage of sorts ever since that ill-fated bottle of Freisa (I also have a bottle of rose from them open). I guess I am trying to overcome that bad bottle (it's working). Anyway, this bottle has cracked me up since I got it because it has an amusing label of a grumpy or possibly smug looking fox sitting on a stool on it, surrounded by Japanese characters (another Gary Taxali creation). In true Bonny Doon fashion, the documentation that came with the wine not only references but quotes Jimi Hendrix's "Foxy Lady" in a footnote:

Foxy
Foxy
You know you're a cute little heartbreaker
Foxy
You know you're a sweet little lovemaker
Foxy

What's with all the foxy talk? Well, it is widely considered that Charbono has a "foxy" quality, which means wine made from the grape often smells like Concord grape juice, something often found in wines made with vitis labrusca grapes (native North American grapes and the family in which you find Concord grapes) rather than vitis vinifera (European grapes found to make better wine, and the family from which you get Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and all the other big players in the wine world). Charbono is in the vinifera family and is thought to be the same grape as the Italian Dolcetto and the Douce Noir of Savoie. The notes with the wine state that the 2002 Charbono went through several tricks to overcome the issues of a foxy, low-acid wine... a longer cuvaison for more complexity combined with an extra five months in the barrel to overcome the grapey character.

Notes: Dark purple-red in the glass with pink edges. A nose full of berry fruit... red fruit, black fruit, you name it. Under the fruit there is a slight sweet dustiness (fox-ay!)-- it's not overwhelming, but it is pleasantly integrated into the wine. In the mouth this is pretty spicy all around, and has a lot more black fruit along with not much tannin at all (surprising) and a nice level of acidity to handle the fruit (also surprising). There is a slight bitter flavor in the finish, but it isn't overpowering and adds interest. Overall it tastes like what would happen if Zinfandel and Syrah got together and made wine babies (it has a spicy quality but is neither as cloyingly spicy as Zinfandel can be, and not as overpoweringly spicy as Syrah). It's very nice and drinkable, and I think that it is a success as a Charbono since I don't detect a lot of the nasty overwhelming foxiness I remember from Concord grape juice (foxiness to me smells like ecologically correct cleanser or dishwashing soap).

Cost: $18

Overall: B

Comments

[Kieca]

Thanks for the extra Charbono history (I did mention the possible Douce Noir and Dolcetto connection). I did not get any foxiness out of it (and I wonder why it got such a bad reputation), and think it is pretty tasty. I have another bottle of the Bonny Doon socked away and have been meaning to check out some other offerings as well (but have been distracted by rosés and summer wines). I will keep all the producers you mentioned in mind. Other than Shypoke and Bonny Doon, I didn't know who else was out there making Charbono!

[Peter Heitz]

Glad to see that Charbono is getting some interest here.

Just want to point out the Vitus Vinifera Charbono does not have a foxy character. The origin of the variety is believed to be the Savoie region of France, some believe Charbono to be identical to the Dolcetto grape of Piemonte and, in fact, it is found there in both Dolcetto and Barbera vineyards. However, no wine labeled Charbono is produced in Italy. In California, it dates to the 1880s. The wines produced from Charbono are dark, with almost an opaque purple color with a distinctive aroma of black cherries, plums accented by nuances of tar, black pepper and tabacco. A full-bodied palate with pronounced, but well-integrated tannins give it a rich texture and long finish.

As a champion of this endangered variety and as the winemaker / owner of Shypoke, I would encourage all to try any Charbono they can find. Most of the variety's limited acreage is centered around the town of Calistoga. The area provides for the perfect conditions to ripen the heirloom variety. As such trying the various wines off against one another is a real education in what is possible with one variety. Some of the best examples of Cahrbono are made by Toffanelli, Bob Foley, Turley and (of course) Shypoke- give them a try and you will be amazed! Shypoke Charbono can be found Vintage Berkeley in the east bay or at Shypoke.com. Also check out the wounderful organization 'Slow Food' which works to promote and protect endangered food stuffs- with the Charbono variety a new member of the Slow Food Ark! Cheers,
Peter Heitz