2003 Radio-Coteau "Savoy"

Region: Anderson Valley, California, US

Composition: 100% Pinot Noir

Background: This is the second vintage of wines from Eric Sussman and winery Radio Coteau, (a phrase meaning "hillside broadcast", or, "word of mouth"). Sussman makes four Pinot Noirs, a Syrah, and a Zinfandel. I had the 2002 Timbervine Syrah last summer, and remember that I learned exactly what the scent of geranium was from it, while enjoying it quite a bit.

Sussman made 440 cases of the Savoy Pinot Noir and they are already sold out, according to the winery website (I know you can still get them here and there, but they are not easy to come by). The names of the wines all reflect those of the growers/vineyards the grapes come from, with the exception of the "Neblina" Pinot Noir blend. Sussman is a deliberate and dedicated winemaker, and this wine is the result of not one, but several passes through the vineyard to obtain grapes at optimal ripeness (not a completely uncommon practice, but still very meticulous and dedicated). He bottles his wines unfined and unfiltered.

Notes: This is a ruby blue-red in the glass, and has a slightly hot nose full of black cherry along with vanilla and cinnamon cookie spice. The vanilla became more prevalent as the wine opened, up, but we didn't get to decant it and I am afraid we did the wine a terrible injustice by drinking it this young in the first place. So we added insult to injury by not decanting it. It is slightly thin-seeming early on in the mouth and the fruit is not fully fleshed out, but it has a lot of spice and even a hint of leather and smoke in it, especially in the finish. It was pleasant enough, but I did not love it, and I think that is probably somewhat to do with the fact that it is still very young (I was warned of this beforehand, so I can only blame myself there). I wouldn't mind revisiting it in a year or two, if I can find a bottle, because I respect Sussman and what he is doing.

Cost: $40-$50

Overall: B