2002 Devil's Lair Chardonnay

Region: Margaret River, Australia

Composition: 100% Chardonnay

Background: I don't often like Chardonnay, although I find that that sentiment is changing now that the super new oaked, 100 percent ML, sur lies aged Chardonnay ("California" Chardonnay) is starting to go by the wayside (that, or I am just finding more Chardonnays I like). Sure, maybe the grape has a kind of blank canvas thing going on with its not very distinctive characteristics, but I really don't want overmanipulated, creamy, buttery (usually rancid to me) Chardonnay. I usually find I like old world Chardonnay better than new, and when I had this at a tasting last summer I was surprised to like it, so I bought some.

Devil's Lair is in the Margaret River area of western Australia, and, around here, I see wines made for their second label, Fifth Leg (named for that little disembodied fifth leg you see on the Devil's Lair label), more than I see the Devil's Lair wines. The winery is named for the nearby Devil's Lair cave, a cave where fossilized remains of Tasmanian Devils have been found, proving that Tasmanian Devils once lived on the Australian mainland.

Notes: This is a very clear and rich golden yellow in the glass, with pale green glints. It has an aroma of peach, pineapple, and toasty hazelnuts, with some softer notes of rocks and straw (especially here on the second night, after it loosened up) underneath. On the palate it has a fair amount of fruit like grapefruit and lemon, and the finish originally had some soft oak spice which is wrapped up in some bright acidity. This second night the acidity is softened and the finish is slightly milkier and creamier, like a lemon custard, and I am enjoying it a lot (the first night the acid in the finish was a little too much for me, although I thought it was bright and tasty, and I am always somewhat surprised when I like creamy or custardy finishes, but if done nicely they are fine). I have been drinking it along with dinner, which was a fava bean, arugula, green onion, and asiago salad and a pizza with asparagus, corn, green onion and goat cheese/mozzarella/parmigiano, and it went especially well with the pizza.

Cost: $18

Overall: B+