this heaven gives me migraine

2001 McIlroy Cellars Aquarius Ranch Pinot Noir

Region: Russian River Valley, California, US

Composition: 100% Pinot Noir

Background: I didn't know anything about these guys and picked this bottle up on a whim. Research tells me that McIlroy Cellars is a family-owned-and-run winery (their website comes complete with family photo) in Sonoma County, and they established Aquarius Ranch (off Westside Road in the Russian River Valley) in 1972, intending to grow premium grapes there. The winemaker and McIlroy cellars head, Will McIlroy, got his degree in winemaking from UC Berkeley in 1982 and first had his chance to make commercial wine in 1990 while working at Davis Bynum. The 642 cases made of this Pinot were aged for ten months in French oak and went through 100 percent malolactic fermentation. Besides this Pinot, McIlroy makes Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, and Zinfandel, along with whatever else strikes his fancy.

Notes: This is clear ruby in the glass, paling to a dark salmon at the rim. The nose is full of tar and cherries, with a little bit of tobacco and earth. There is a lot of cherry pie flavor on the palate, along with something meaty (which I like, despite my vegetarianism), mixed in with warm allspice and nutmeg. The finish is also fairly spicy... more of that allspice and cardamom, along with some toasty strawberry, although there is a also slight bitter undertaste I don't like. The finish is a little jarring to me; I feel as though the spice element isn't as integrated with the fruit as it could be, and then, well, there is that bitter thing. The body feels a little thin, although there is nice fruit and acid there. Generally I prefer my pinots a little darker and heavier, but this is okay for a lighter-style pinot.

Cost: $17

Overall: B-

2003 Parker Station Central Coast Pinot Noir

Region: Los Olivos, Santa Ynez Valley, California, US

Composition: 100% Pinot Noir

Background: There are a few things you might think of when you think of Fess Parker. Parker was Matt's grandfather's favorite actor, and his roles included, among other things, Davy Crockett in the Disney movies, and Daniel Boone on TV. Which explains why his Fess Parker winery label has a coonskin cap (and the Parker Station label a tiny raccoon head) on it.

Or, if you have seen Sideways, you might know that the Fess Parker winery stood in for "Frass Canyon" in the Miles-freakout-with-the-spit-bucket scene. (A lot of people are critical of the newish Parker tasting room, which brings a Napaesque grandeur, including a spa, to the more rustic Santa Ynez Valley.) Anyway, Parker Station is Fess Parker's second label, and like many second labels, it is there to bring the consumer value-priced wines. I have only had one other Parker wine, also a Pinot Noir, on the Fess Parker label, and that was long ago and I can't really say much worthwhile about it now except that it was not terrible and I didn't pour it down the sink.

Notes: This is a pretty cherry red in the glass, with hints of ruby. It's got a soft nose (which becomes more evident with some time out of the bottle) that is slightly hot but full of cherry and some forest floor (cedar/pine). It's simple and fruit-driven, not very complex but really easy to drink. Once warmed up, it's got a touch of leather and tobacco on the finish, but nothing overpowering, and the tannins are hardly evident. It's not an intense pinot a la Williams Selyem, but it is a pleasure to drink and I would enjoy guzzling this at a barbeque in the summer, or even on a not-very-cold California January night, such as this, with some potato, chickpea, and spinach stew. It feels a little bit like a guilty pleasure, like watching Nip / Tuck.

Cost: Ten bucks at K&L.

Overall: B (it gets an A for effort)